How to build a garden path, step by step

Mark the route with string and pegs, or a hose for curves. Typical widths: about 60–80 cm for one person, 100–120 cm for two side by side or a wheelbarrow.

Remove the topsoil across the full width plus about 10 cm each side for edging. Depth = sub-base + bedding + paving thickness, minus how much the path should stand above the lawn (usually 1–2 cm). Compact the formation and shape it to the final fall.

1. Lay geotextile on the formation with about 20 cm overlaps.
2. Spread crushed stone in layers of about 10 cm.
3. Compact each layer with a plate compactor, slightly damp, until it no longer marks underfoot.

Set kerbs or edging on a concrete bed with concrete haunching behind, before paving. Metal or plastic edging pinned with stakes also works for garden paths.

1. Spread 3–5 cm of sand or 0–4 mm grit and screed it off between two rails at the correct fall.
2. Do not walk on the screeded bed — work from the laid paving.
3. Lay the blocks with 2–3 mm joints to the pattern; cut edge pieces with a saw or block splitter.
4. Brush fine sand into the joints, compact with a plate fitted with a rubber mat, then top up the sand.

Gravel path: the same sub-base, then 3–5 cm of decorative gravel between edgings. Stepping stones in the lawn: each slab on a sand bed, about 60–65 cm between centres, set flush with the grass so you can mow over them.