Updated · 3 min read
In short
- Laminate 7–12 mm (8 mm most common); engineered 10–15 mm with a 2–6 mm wood wear layer; solid wood 14–22 mm.
- Total thickness decides the finished floor height — thresholds, doors, transitions to tiles.
- On wood floors the wear layer decides how many times you can sand.
Laminate: 7–12 mm
Thickness does not replace the wear class: 8 mm AC4 lasts better in a hallway than 12 mm AC3. Underlay adds 2–5 mm.
- 7–8 mm: the usual choice on a flat screed.
- 10–12 mm: stiffer, sounds less hollow, more forgiving of small unevenness; useful when a given floor level must be reached.
Engineered: 10–15 mm
A hardwood top layer bonded to a wood or board core. A 2–3 mm wear layer can be lightly sanded once or twice; 4–6 mm allows several refinishes. Its dimensional stability makes it a common choice over underfloor heating.
Solid wood: 14–22 mm
A single piece of timber with tongue and groove; the part above the tongue can be sanded many times over the years. Glued to screed or nailed to joists after acclimatisation. Solid wood moves more with humidity, so expansion gaps are essential.
Working out the finished height
Add the flooring, underlay or adhesive and any vapour barrier, and compare with the neighbouring floor. Next to 8 mm tiles on adhesive (about 13 mm total), 8 mm laminate on 3 mm underlay (about 11 mm) is almost flush. Larger differences need transition profiles or a levelling screed first.
Frequently asked questions
What thickness over underfloor heating?
One with a low total thermal resistance: engineered 10–15 mm glued down, or a compatible laminate on a thin underlay. The manufacturer states whether the product is suitable and its thermal resistance with the underlay.

